Saturday Beefcake: Andiamo a Battere

For many Italian first and second courses, it's the battuto that provides the zest, that medley of vegetables and herbs that get things going.

Battuto is the past participle of the verb battere which has a number of nuanced meanings in addition to its foremost definition. Its basic meaning is to beat in just about every sense of the word, also in the same sense as the beaten path. Andare a battere in slang means to go a cruising, in every sense of the word. Male homosexuals in Italy -- at least 20 years or so ago -- use the phrase to say exactly that.

So, to prepare the battuto in an all male household in Florence during that time, made for some word play. Of course, repeating the joke more than twice ... well, you know.

Anyway, for today's Saturday Beefcake, from the August issue of Playgirl, a magazine ostensibly for straight women, we provide the man who graced the August cover, universal fantasy, Julian Fantechi a name that seems to come from that grand peninsula so loved here. In Playgirl, it was noted that he is from Queens. His bio on his official site says this:


"I was born in New York City on February 16, 1976. About a year after I was born, we moved to Florence, Italy, and then three years later we returned to New York. I grew up moving between San Diego and New York - it seems I always return to the City." Go here to read more and check it out.



So, while not revealing the family jewels of the men pictured here, other secret gems will be revealed: the secret battuto for Column's basic sugo recipe is hereby revealed. [trumpets blare, lions roar, stars burst, and the cherubim sing.]

Sugo di Papa Giovanni

Olive oil, extra virgin
Garlic
One large carrot
Small fresh fennel
Red onion
Fresh basil
Granny Smith apple
Plum tomatoes


1. This sugo is for pasta, but can be a basic tomato sauce for any recipe that calls for it.
2. Prepare the battuto: mince the carrot, fresh fennel, onion and basil together. This is why the gods created food processors.
3. In a sauce pan heat up the garlic in the olive oil over low to medium heat until it is golden. A suggestion might be to saute the cloves unminced. Come si pare.
4. Once the garlic reaches the desired state, toss in the battuto and saute until the aroma seduces you to toss in the tomatoes.
5. If you are fortunate enough to have fresh plum tomatoes that live up to the reputation of their Italian counterparts, they should be blanched, peeled and de-seeded. Imported Pomi chopped tomatoes are very good or any other can of San Marzano imported tomatoes will do.
6. The sugo should only need about 20 minutes to cook down to its proper density.
7. The presence of the apple should insure against too much acidity, but should there be and you are serving pasta, add:

Unsalted butter

For the maccheroni, top with a grated cheese mixture of provolone, ricotta salata, and pecorino romano cheeses.

Just to keep it interesting, from the same issue a god from the stadium, one of those guys from the Making of the Calendar, 2006 -- Romain Froment, another fantasy with universal appeal. If you need to be battuto, Romain, not to be confused in the least with the lettuce, might be just the man for the job.